Chicken Gizzard and Liver
Monday, July 9th, 2007One month ago, I stepped off the plane at Narita Airport armed with 2 semesters of Japanese language instruction, a handful of Japanese guidebooks/dictionaries, and a naïve confidence of my communication abilities. Although I realized that I was far from fluent, I was sure that I could easily get in a cab, check into my apartment, and get dinner, at the very least. I was wrong.
The Taxi Ride
Nearly sideswiped by the automatic doors of the taxi, I hopped into the taxi with a map, pointed and stated “Tokyo Weekly Mansions Onegaishimasu.” He then stared at the map blankly, obviously not understanding where to go. After he said a string of incredibly fast Japanese (much faster than the audio recordings played for me in my college classroom), I gave up understanding and repeatedly jabbed at my map saying “Koko! Koko!” It took an hour for him to find my apartment complex, which I later discovered to be a 5-minute walk from where I called the cab.
The Apartment
After running into the automatic sliding doors (a rough way to figure out that they open up slower than the ones in America), I reached the lobby of the apartment complex and tried to check in. Emphasis on tried. I thought the payment had been worked out before I came. I was staying for 2 months and my college was taking care of all the major finances. There was an obvious miscommunication when they asked for a 5-figure deposit when I had little else but a few coins with holes in it. (It took me a week to figure out that they were 5 yen). I was never taught the vocabulary necessary to communicate the fact that the rent was supposed to have been taken care of before I arrived, and that I didn’t have enough money on me yet. Eventually after 5-6 phone calls to various people, the situation worked itself out.
The Dinner
At this point, I was starving and craving notoriously delicious Japanese cuisine. I walked around Akasaka overwhelmed by the numerous restaurant choices. Eventually I settled on a decent looking place that ended up being a Yakitori restaurant. I strolled in, was greeted by a loud “Irrashaimase!”, and took a seat at the counter. Ready to put into practice a phrase I knew I’d use countless times, I asked,
“Eigo no menyu ga arimasuka?”
“…Iie.”
Oops. My plan backfired. The menu was in all Japanese, with no pictures, I really had no idea what to order. Luckily the chef saw my confusion and pointed to his recommendation.
Unfortunately for me, I was soon served up several skewers of chicken gizzard and liver. I promised myself I would try new foods to completely immerse myself into Japanese culture, but was hoping it would be more of a transition. While I chewed on my stick of chicken gizzard, I contemplated the difficulties of my journey thus far.
Many of the grammar, vocabulary, and culture points I learned in the classroom proved useless when I arrived. What is taught in a classroom in a year, let alone in many years of studies can only demonstrate a very small aspect of Japanese language and the culture that is so interconnected with the language. I’ve been here for one month already and feel I still have so much to learn. I’m starting to understand that only by coming to this fantastic country can one really understand the intricacies and eccentricities of Japan.

July 9th, 2007 at 7:30 pm
Awesome! I see a new series coming up: A Newcomer To Japan. Screenplay By The Japanesepod101.com Team, Based On A Blog By Jeffokita.
がんばってよ!
July 10th, 2007 at 10:53 am
Thanks Max! Japan is a crazy place and there are so many culture shocks when coming here. I have many more stories that I hope to share with everyone!
July 11th, 2007 at 6:51 pm
hi! It’s my first time to leave a message here. It reminds me of those days in Japan as a exchange student. Can’t stop laughing when i read this. Japan is really full of intricacies and eccentricities. I couldn’t understand the menu at first even though there’s Kanji on it. btw, i’m a Chinese. I hope you will go through this soon and find out how amazing this country is. ganbattene
July 11th, 2007 at 7:50 pm
Sometimes I think it’s better that you don’t know! As you really don’t know what you’re eating, it opens the door for one to try a plethora of new dishes!
いただきます!
July 12th, 2007 at 8:58 am
haha, yeah I know just how insufficient most general classes are. I usually stick to self study with the aid of native speakers, either friends or teachers. thing is, you’re never really completely prepared for all of the days encounters, so I try to study really flexible vocabulary first and then move on to speclialized vocabulary that concerns me.
frankly though, communication barriers can be extremely good teachers! Tadashii ne?
hehe
-wanglong
July 12th, 2007 at 11:05 am
Amy - Thanks for the kind words! I did get through it, and now I know several places where they have an English menu, or at least pictures.
Wang - Communication Barriers are a very good teacher! I’ve learned so much here just about daily life. It’s really amazing.
July 20th, 2007 at 10:34 am
Thank Buddha for my Japanese dictionary and its kanji handwritting recognition!!!
Of course I’m willing to play food ticket roulette whenever I get myself over there!
Jeff, what’s the worse you can eat? Nattou?
July 20th, 2007 at 10:44 am
Jenny - I’ve actually had Nattou, and I didn’t think it was that bad! The fermented taste left me a slightly alcoholic-like taste, but putting it on rice, the texture didn’t bother me too much. That being said, I think trying it once is enough! I had my little cousin try it first, telling him that it was like refried beans. After he didn’t seizure or throw up, I figured it was okay.
July 21st, 2007 at 7:37 pm
Great story Jeff, I very much relate!
Try raw liver, and intestine stew! Yikes! Actually my mouth didn’t mind it, but my brain issued a veto.
My favorite thing is getting stuck when buying food at the combini and they ask if I want a) a bag, b) chopsticks, c) for it to be microwaved, or, the terrifying d) something is wrong, like maybe the price was off, or they are out of something, etc… who knows! A lot of muttering and getting stared at