Chicken Gizzard and Liver

Monday, July 9th, 2007

One month ago, I stepped off the plane at Narita Airport armed with 2 semesters of Japanese language instruction, a handful of Japanese guidebooks/dictionaries, and a naïve confidence of my communication abilities. Although I realized that I was far from fluent, I was sure that I could easily get in a cab, check into my apartment, and get dinner, at the very least. I was wrong.

The Taxi Ride
Nearly sideswiped by the automatic doors of the taxi, I hopped into the taxi with a map, pointed and stated “Tokyo Weekly Mansions Onegaishimasu.” He then stared at the map blankly, obviously not understanding where to go. After he said a string of incredibly fast Japanese (much faster than the audio recordings played for me in my college classroom), I gave up understanding and repeatedly jabbed at my map saying “Koko! Koko!” It took an hour for him to find my apartment complex, which I later discovered to be a 5-minute walk from where I called the cab.

The Apartment

After running into the automatic sliding doors (a rough way to figure out that they open up slower than the ones in America), I reached the lobby of the apartment complex and tried to check in. Emphasis on tried. I thought the payment had been worked out before I came. I was staying for 2 months and my college was taking care of all the major finances. There was an obvious miscommunication when they asked for a 5-figure deposit when I had little else but a few coins with holes in it. (It took me a week to figure out that they were 5 yen). I was never taught the vocabulary necessary to communicate the fact that the rent was supposed to have been taken care of before I arrived, and that I didn’t have enough money on me yet. Eventually after 5-6 phone calls to various people, the situation worked itself out.

The Dinner
At this point, I was starving and craving notoriously delicious Japanese cuisine. I walked around Akasaka overwhelmed by the numerous restaurant choices. Eventually I settled on a decent looking place that ended up being a Yakitori restaurant. I strolled in, was greeted by a loud “Irrashaimase!”, and took a seat at the counter. Ready to put into practice a phrase I knew I’d use countless times, I asked,

“Eigo no menyu ga arimasuka?”
“…Iie.”

Oops. My plan backfired. The menu was in all Japanese, with no pictures, I really had no idea what to order. Luckily the chef saw my confusion and pointed to his recommendation.

Unfortunately for me, I was soon served up several skewers of chicken gizzard and liver. I promised myself I would try new foods to completely immerse myself into Japanese culture, but was hoping it would be more of a transition. While I chewed on my stick of chicken gizzard, I contemplated the difficulties of my journey thus far.

Many of the grammar, vocabulary, and culture points I learned in the classroom proved useless when I arrived. What is taught in a classroom in a year, let alone in many years of studies can only demonstrate a very small aspect of Japanese language and the culture that is so interconnected with the language. I’ve been here for one month already and feel I still have so much to learn. I’m starting to understand that only by coming to this fantastic country can one really understand the intricacies and eccentricities of Japan.

9 Responses to “Chicken Gizzard and Liver”

  1. avatar Max Says:

    Awesome! I see a new series coming up: A Newcomer To Japan. Screenplay By The Japanesepod101.com Team, Based On A Blog By Jeffokita.

    がんばってよ!

  2. avatar Jeff Says:

    Thanks Max! Japan is a crazy place and there are so many culture shocks when coming here. I have many more stories that I hope to share with everyone!

  3. avatar amy Says:

    hi! It’s my first time to leave a message here. It reminds me of those days in Japan as a exchange student. Can’t stop laughing when i read this. Japan is really full of intricacies and eccentricities. I couldn’t understand the menu at first even though there’s Kanji on it. btw, i’m a Chinese. I hope you will go through this soon and find out how amazing this country is. ganbattene

  4. avatar Peter Says:

    Sometimes I think it’s better that you don’t know! As you really don’t know what you’re eating, it opens the door for one to try a plethora of new dishes!
    いただきます!

  5. avatar Wang Long Says:

    haha, yeah I know just how insufficient most general classes are. I usually stick to self study with the aid of native speakers, either friends or teachers. thing is, you’re never really completely prepared for all of the days encounters, so I try to study really flexible vocabulary first and then move on to speclialized vocabulary that concerns me.

    frankly though, communication barriers can be extremely good teachers! Tadashii ne?

    hehe

    -wanglong

  6. avatar Jeff Says:

    Amy - Thanks for the kind words! I did get through it, and now I know several places where they have an English menu, or at least pictures.

    Wang - Communication Barriers are a very good teacher! I’ve learned so much here just about daily life. It’s really amazing.

  7. avatar Jenny Says:

    Thank Buddha for my Japanese dictionary and its kanji handwritting recognition!!!

    Of course I’m willing to play food ticket roulette whenever I get myself over there!

    Jeff, what’s the worse you can eat? Nattou? :)

  8. avatar Jeff Says:

    Jenny - I’ve actually had Nattou, and I didn’t think it was that bad! The fermented taste left me a slightly alcoholic-like taste, but putting it on rice, the texture didn’t bother me too much. That being said, I think trying it once is enough! I had my little cousin try it first, telling him that it was like refried beans. After he didn’t seizure or throw up, I figured it was okay.

  9. avatar Xander Says:

    Great story Jeff, I very much relate!
    Try raw liver, and intestine stew! Yikes! Actually my mouth didn’t mind it, but my brain issued a veto.

    My favorite thing is getting stuck when buying food at the combini and they ask if I want a) a bag, b) chopsticks, c) for it to be microwaved, or, the terrifying d) something is wrong, like maybe the price was off, or they are out of something, etc… who knows! A lot of muttering and getting stared at :-)

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